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Those would be Article 430 and 440, respectively [422.3]. Though explicitly stated in Article 422, a person familiar with the NEC would already be aware of this. If you got this answer wrong, spend some time in Chapters 2 and 4 to get a feel for which Articles cover what. Then make a list of the Articles that apply to your work. Study the Articles on that list; for example, read carefully through them for 15 minutes or so each day.
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Yes, they need to be GFCI-protected [422.5]. So do any drinking fountains in the building. Note that the GFCI can be integral to the attachment plug; it doesn't necessarily need to be one mounted in the wall. It can, in fact, take any of the five forms listed in 422.5(B).
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It has to be at least the marked rating of the appliance or the marked rating of an appliance having combined loads as provided in 422.62[422.10(A)].
- Just one [422.12]. But there are two exceptions noted below the rule.
- It has to be between 3 ft and 6.5 ft long from the face of the attachment plug to the plane of the rear of the appliance [422.16(B)(2)]. Generally, longer is better because it makes pulling the appliance out easier. If you are running the cord through a cabinet wall to plug it in under the sink, you've probably got an extra 2.5 to 3 feet to that receptacle. Unplugging the dishwasher allows hte cord to be pulled all the way to the wall. Once it's there, 6.5 ft should be plenty. If there is some reason why it won't be, make the hole big enough to accomodate the plug, but use a grommet or other device that will make the hole "smaller" in a "soft" way so you can push the plug through from the sink side.
Don't forget to use a long braided steel water supply hose, too. This allows you to move the unit out and then disconnect the water instead of the other way around. Be careful not to get it so long you bunch it up in an overly tight dishwasher space. If possible, take up the slack on the sink side of the hole. Coil it nicely, cable tie it, and support it with a pair of hanger clips.
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